I’ve had the Printrbot Jr V2 for several months now and have had lots of issues with the original extruder design. So when I saw the new aluminum extruder, it was sold. I had a couple issues with it initially. The biggest being that there was no guide to show you how to put it together. Nor were there any reference pictures to tell me whether I did it right or not.
I’ve taken the liberty of creating a little guide to help anyone else looking to purchase and assemble the new Aluminum Extruder.
Take a look HERE
Created a list of AVR fuses with a easy explanation of what each does. Found myself in a situation where my project didn’t work and eventually found out that the fuses were the issue. I thought I would dig deeper into understanding them and share it with those who happen to be scratching their head at what microcontroller fuses do. I hope it’s helpful, enjoy. You’ll find the tutorial HERE.
As promised. This is a detailed tutorial guiding you through the process of setting up your design files in DipTrace and exporting your files to formats accepted by OSH Park. Enjoy.
DipTrace: Design your PCB for OSHPark.com
While working on the power supply for what will be a temperature control unit I made a grave mistake of attaching my ISPduino, formally testuino (atmega328p breakout essentially) directly to the, 7805, 5v regulator. The result was a little bit of smoke from the micro controller (MCU) and the blink led program stopped working. the burn marks in the picture were part of a failed attempt to remove the mcu.
The Setup: The temperature control will drive a peltier so I plan to drive it from a 12v 2A wall wart. That will be hooked up to the 7805, 5v regulator to run the mcu. The problem is, and I learned this the hard way, the 7805 produces 1.5A of current and the mcu only requires around 500mA.
The Fix: The solution is simple, I need to use a resistor. A 10ohm resistor will produce approximately 500mA. But note you can’t attach just any resistor. You’re generating approximately 22 watts of power. So I’ll need at resistor rated to at least 25 watts.
Good thing I made a couple backup ISPduino boards. This one is finished. If you’re interested in the files for the ISPduino board I’ll be posting them in the projects portion here shortly. Please leave comments. I hope these tutorials and lessons learned are helpful for some. Any kind of feedback is extremely encouraging.
I’ve been looking for something like this for a while. Enjoy.
This Instructable is about dry film solder mask, in other words, is the green stuff that is on top of the circuit board.
I like to use smd components in my circuits board because I don’t have a computerized drill machine and do in it by hand for a big
boards are really tedious.
Soldering smd components in a copper board without dry solder mask, especially for those little capacitors and resistor of 402 in size, becomes a tough challenge and of course those micro controllers with almost zero space between pins.
Read more here
A new tutorial has been released walking you through programming a atmega328 using the Arduino IDE, USBasp and AVRFuses. The purpose of this was to give those who enjoy programming with the Arduino, an opportunity to use the already available code and program a factory set microcontroller. Yes I know you can directly program a atmega 328 dip but for those who want to program without the arduino firmware installed on the chip or even bring your projects to the SMD level this tutorial is probably what you’re looking for. Enjoy. Find the tutorial HERE.
Gamma photons interacting with cheap photodiodes produce small current pulses which are easily amplified and allow detection of individual photon events. This offers the possibility of cheap, small and rugged radiation detectors of reasonable sensitivity. While not as sensitive as larger GM-tube detectors, this solid state device is still quite useful for determining if something is radioactive enough to be interesting/concerning…..Read More